Ebike build - Crystalyte Rear 26 and eZee Front 700C

EBike Builds 
Crystalyte Rear - Hub / EZ Front - Geared / 
Bafang BBS02 Mid drive

EBike build August 2012 - June 2014
Currently have 5500km's on this system.
Last update January 6, 2015

Electric Bike Conversion 1: 
Kona kikapu 2003 mountain bike, Rear Wheel 26" Crystalyte Hub, 48Volt 10Ah LiMn Battery - retired lasted about 2 years
48 Volt 20aH AllCell 20Ah

(Not including cost of Bike)
Start up Cost ~$1500 running Total ~$2500

Great site for learning about this technology and purchasing your parts.  http://www.ebikes.ca

My Build on a Kona Kikapu 24" Frame, 26" Rims / Full Suspension Mountain bike

Ebikes.ca Parts Purchased:

HUB-Rim/Controller/Cycle Analyst
Crystalyte HS35 KIT (HS3540 Hub) ~$700, current price ebikes.ca - store
Upgraded the 25Amp controller to the 40AMP Version, comes with throttle and cycle analyst/screen.
Upgraded to the half twist throttle.
** Note I learned after that the 40Amp system works best with a 20AH battery with a higher C output.  I only had a 10AH battery and the 40A controller was drawing too much from it, and killed the battery earlier than it should have.
**the norco/ezee build with the 25A controller and 10Ah battery is running fine.

Battery:

~The most expensive part of this hobby.  From the research I have done
Best - LiPo - lightweight, high power output - pain in the ass to maintain and charge- hobby stores
Second - AllCell system Lithium-Ion ebikes.ca
LiMn with Samsung 5C cells ebikes.ca
Ping LifePo4 - pingbattery.com

  December 2014 Upgraded Battery to: Allcell (48V 20Ah , Allcell Naked Battery with LG Cells, 40A)
  $1500 for a battery that really hurt, but it is a top rated battery, the 10Ah Samsung setup only lasted around  a year, hopefully I get some more life out of this one.  If I kill this battery I will either be moving to a  geared motor system or start using LiPo batteries, there is enough info on LiPo for a whole other blog.

  The other battery option I explored was the PING LifePo4 battery, it is about half the cost of the AllCell but it is bulkier, when my wife kills her battery on the Samsung/Ezee system I think I will try out a PING with hers.

I also explored the LiPo route, the biggest thing that drove me away from this system was the procedure that you have to do to charge these batteries.  For something I do everyday at the end of my ride, I wanted it as simple as possible.

General battery info- http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/batteries.html
LiPo - http://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Lithium_Polymer_(LiPo)

Old Battery: 48Volt 10Ah LiMn Battery Pack with 5C Samsung Cells and matching Charger. ~$795.00

Extras:
Stainless Spacer Washers to go on the Rear Axle to help with spacing between the disc brakes.
$4.00 Each I bought 2.

Torque Arm for Rear $18.00 Unfortunately it did not fit on my frame.
* read about Torque arms on the ebikes.ca website, if you are converting a cheapo bike or putting the motor on the front wheel you need a torque arm.
*Update purchased the proper torque arm and installed - yes I spun the motor out of the frame, luckily no damage to the motor, typically if this happens you spin the wires out of the motor, then you are screwed.

Freewheel
9 Speed 11-32 tooth DDNP Freewheel upgrade, having that smaller gear is a necessity if you want to pedal and go faster!! ~$32.00

Things that I have purchased since the Ebike upgrade:

Tires
  My first tire was a Panaracer Fire-XC-Pro - I completely wore the sidewall out on this tire.  But it
  was a great tire. (26 x 2.1)

  My second summer tire is now a Schwalbe Big Ben (26 x 2.15)
  It is a large tire, it holds lots of air so it helps with the cushion factor on the back, it totally sucks in
  the mud though.  I don't do much offroading anymore so I am ok with that.

Winter (Schwalbe - Ice Spikers) Front and Rear 26 x 2.1 these are the best winter tires you can buy.
They are expensive though!! around $100 bucks a pop

Tubes - Get the thickest Best Tubes you can (thorn tubes) (Example QTubes Thorn Resistant)
Sunlite thorn resistant is another heavy tube

Bike Rack and Seat Post:
Rear Seat post Bike Rack I am on my second one.
First one that came with the kit Broke. (Have moved battery now)
Seat Post (First one broke from all the weight hanging over the back, Battery and Controller)
Spokes, more spokes, then some thicker custom spokes (11g - 11 Gauge - 2.9mm thick)
(14g are 2.0mm that typically come with the system or replacement ones)
  *High Speed, Lot's of weight I weigh around 240lbs, and big bumps cause spoke breakage...
  *Keep your spokes tightened, if they loosen they will break.

Hydraulic Disc Brake System  replaced Mechanical Discs. (Ebay ~$120)
  *I was burning through brake pads on the mechanical discs, I have been getting more longevity with the Hydraulics, still the combination of being a heavy guy and average speeds in the 30-50Km/h range are hard on the brakes, even when using REGEN.
Current brakes - Hayes Dyno Sport Hydraulic

Lights - High voltage LED headlight from Ebikes.ca, the LED Lights are nice low power using and plug directly into the cycle analyst.

Infineon Controller // New controller - old one is out on warranty, had a part come loose in the existing controller and it stopped working.

Update June 2014 - keep blowing the Infineon controllers I went through a new one and a repaired one.
I've come to the conclusion that the one hill that I climb is too steep for my current system and my current weight.

I am now running a lower amperage Crystalyte controller and am being mindful of the power draw on the steep hills.

If I do decide to upgrade to a higher end controller I think I will try and get one of these if he is still making them: Lyen controller. www.lyen.com
The other consideration is to switch from the hub motor to a geared motor.

Torque Arm - you must install on of these or you will spin your motor right out of your bike frame.

Steel Rim and Spokes - custom cut 12g spokes on 26 x 2.125 double wall rim
http://custommotoredbicycles.com/heavy_duty_26inch_bicycle_wheels_12_g_12_gauge_stainless_spokes_black_redanodized_colored_rims_alloyfreewheel_wheels

I purchased the front rim that was came with 12g spokes, I removed the spokes it came with and laced the new rim myself with 11/12Gauge custom cut spokes from homeshobbies.com.
HB-11/12 spokes are from http://www.holmeshobbies.com, this is the second batch I have had from them, they seem to be stronger, or the new Rim is working better, I was typically breaking spokes every 2 weeks or so, I have yet to break one and have been running this setup for around 8 months.
Rim lacing instructions.
http://www.electricbike.com/lace-hub-motor/


General Notes:

Battery Placement
I originally had the battery over my rear tire with the rear seat post rack, this was too much weight for my rear tires, spokes and seat rack. I now house the battery in the centre of the Frame (Triangle area) It hangs off the centre bar in a waterproof kayak bag.
Update June 2014
  Found a really cool bag for the battery at MEC (MEC Brand as well), it is a rear rack bag but it fits in the center triangle, with pull straps to go around the frame and velcro straps on the front end of it.  http://www.mec.ca (can't find it on the online listing) see pictures below

Life
This system will get you around 20km's with light pedalling with an average speed of 30-50km/h.
I have only run the battery out once.
I've read on some sites saying you should NOT run the battery dry if avoidable.

I ran the system throughout the winter (always taking the battery in to the house and work away from the cold - cold is bad for the battery)

I had originally wanted the eZee motor, but ebikes did not have in stock and I am not patient.
I am happy with the Crystalyte, but it does not free-wheel like the eZee, there is always a litte bit of resistance with the Crystalyte which makes it a bitch to pedal when you run out of power or don't feel like using the motor.  The eZee is also a few pounds lighter.
The Crystalyte motor is a little quieter.  The eZee motor is a better hill climber and accelerator.  The Crystalyte has a higher top end, not much but a little ;-)

The cycle analyst and controller are intelligent systems where if you use a half throttle and pedal it will save you power and you can go further, I rarely do this, I enjoy the speed to much.
My top speed is 70km/h (downhill)

As time goes by I probably could have bought a good eBike ready to go for the same amount of money.  Would I have run in to the same problems, maybe maybe not.

The advantage to building my own system was to recycle my mountain bike in to an ebike and also having the choice of upgrading to a 48V battery and in the future maybe a 72V battery system that will give me the faster ride that I desire.

This bike was designed to be my daily commuter, I live in Alberta, nice summers and harsh winters.  It takes me about 10 minutes longer than when I used to drive but I now have NO STRESS in traffic.
I no longer pay for parking, I am saving on GAS costs and wear and tear on my vehicle.  It is going to be a great day when the Batteries are longer life and CHEAPER!!!!  If I ever fall in to a big pile of money I have plans on converting an old motorbike to an ebike.


Electric bike conversion 2 - E-Bike Build June 2013
Norco XFR 3 / 700C tires
eZee Front Wheel geared motor
48 Volt 10.5 aH battery Samsung Cells retired
48 Volt 15 aH Ping Battery with bms

I converted another mountain bike to an E-Bike for my wife, here are the specifications on her bike:

Battery:
48V 10.5 Ah eZee Flat Battery with Samsung 5C cells, 25A, Balancing BMS (Lasted about 1.5 years)
Battery has been upgraded to a Ping 48V 15aH 
~ battery is carried in a rear panier system
Motor
e-Zee 700C kit from ebikes.ca
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/conversion-kits/geared/front-eZee-kit-advanced-538.html

Controller
25A Controller, V3 cycle analyst
~ Controller is mounted on the rear rack in a plastic tupperware that i customized and attached to the top of the rack to keep out the elements

Other:
Front torque arm, front and rear LED lights (48 volt), voltage splitter for the lights
48Volt LED lights in front and rear - ebikes.ca

I enjoy riding the front wheel drive system, the bike and motor are quite a bit lighter than my rear hub kona bike.
Also the geared hub allows you to pedal without resistance and with the motor on the front it really feels like you are pedaling a normal bike.  I would reccomend the front wheel eZee system as opposed the Crystalyte or other rear hub systems.


Electric Bike Conversion 3 - May 2015
Norco Charger 9.3, 29er - 2015
eZee Front 500+W Wheel geared motor
48 Volt 20 ah battery AllCell
(Battery Update 2018, AllCell is starting to have voltage drops when over half throttle, I would guess this battery is about 4 years old and has around 7000km's on it.)
Looking to replace it with a Ping 48V 10AH or 15AH
Motor  Kit and accessories purchased for conversion
KIT(Cycle Analyst V2 / 700C Rim / 25A Controller / Half Twist -Throttle)
Accesories - Torque Arm Universal / Rear LED Light / Front LED Light / Battery Splitter cable (anderson) to run the rear light / Front power splitter to run 2 head lights off the Cycle Analyst.
Total ~$1100
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/conversion-kits/ezee.html

I've only had the new bike on the road a few times and I really like it, I've distributed the weight a little better than the crystalyte install. I now have the motor in the front, battery on a rack on the back, the EZee motors do not have any resistance when you are pedaling and also not spinning a 25lb motor in the back has been a nice change.  I'll get some pictures up next week.
*I had read other peoples posts on forums etc. about having to file the fork axle slot (dropout) on the bikes fork, it felt so wrong to do to a new bike but the eZee motor would not fit unless this was done, I had 2 different files and took my time to make a nice even fit, I filed a little off the axel bolt as well just to get a nice even fit.

Update October 2015 - been commuting to and from work for 5 months, all is good, starting to price out a new set of Ice Spiker 29ers for the winter.  Got to get some pictures of the new ride up.



Update May 2015 - after a lot of debate on a fat-bike or a mid-fat bike conversion, I ended up just getting a 29er that would take over 2 inch wide tires.
Deciding factor was cost, the bikes were more expensive and tires and tubes for the bigger bikes are more expensive and less selection.  If money was no object, I would have went with a mid-fat bike 29er like the surly crampus 3.0 inch wide tires, with a front fork upgrade (suspension).  Going faster with wider tires in my opinion is a good thing, I know the road racers would scoff at that :-)

Manufactured E-Bikes

Update March 2015
*really considering moving my motor to a fatbike or buying a fatbike with conversion, having those bigger tires doing the higher speeds would be a nice feature.

Update May 2015 - after a lot of debate on a fat-bike or a mid-fat bike conversion, I ended up just getting a 29er that would take over 2 inch wide tires.
Deciding factor was cost, the bikes were more expensive and tires and tubes for the bigger bikes are more expensive and less selection.  If money was no object, I would have went with a mid-fat bike 29er like the surly crampus with a front fork upgrade (suspension).  Going faster with wider tires in my opinion is a good thing, I know the road racers would scoff at that :-)

Norco bigfoot electric 48Volt bionx system ~$3715
https://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/fat-bike/bigfoot-electric/

Surly Moonlander with bionx
http://www.nycewheels.com/surly-moonlander-bionx-electric-bike.html

Fat ebike review page
http://electricbikereview.com/tag/fat/


Older Links - so many new sites producing ebikes now.
Daymak http://daymak.com I would like to try this one from Daymak
http://www.shadowebike.com/

Smart
http://thesmart.ca

eZee Canada (36Volt systems listed here)
http://www.ezeebike.ca/

BionX
http://www.bionxinternational.com/bionx-international-north-america/products/bionx-e-bike-systems/
SL 350 HD TD XL 48Volt
I have seen some conversions at bike stores with the BionX on it, it looks solid.
Hub Motor

epikbike
These are newer, motor is in the crank, looks interesting. "Whistler" "pedElec"
http://www.epikbike.com/products.aspx $1899.00
CoAxial Motor
New Cypress Model (Rear Hub)
http://www.epikbike.com/download/EPIK_2013_BIKES.pdf

AirStream 905 Bay Cycle and Sports
http://baycyclesports.com/about/performance-electric-bikes-pg75.htm

Motor Types:

Brush-less Hub (Crystalyte. 9C) (Front or Rear Wheel)
Cons: Less low end torque, No 'free' pedalling always light resistance
Pros: Quiet, Better top speed

CoAxial Motor (Crank Style pedElec)
BMC Geared v2,V3,V4
MAC 500W
eZee Geared
Golden GM 902

EBike Sites:
http://www.dragonebikes.com
http://www.goldenmotor.ca/
http://em3ev.com (MAC)
http://www.ebikes.ca
http://endless-sphere.com

Scooters and Three Wheelers and Others:
Nolet Scooter (Three Wheel Cart)

The Kona Kikapu 48 Volt Below, will try and get some pictures up of the Norco.

The Battery is in the bag in the middle, the controller is in the waterproof bag on a rack on the back
Two 48 Volt LED lights on the front from ebikes.ca, they plug directly into the cycle analyst with a power splitter ~ all from ebikes.ca

I use an innter tube to protect the wires that run up the frame to the controller, all connectors in the tube are sealed up with electrical tape first.

2012 - 69.4km/h down 98Ave hill, I have had it over 70 since on that hill!

Average speed 30.0 km/h

Looking for a Heavy Duty Rear Bike Rack (WEST Biking 110lb universal rack)

Looking for Battery Holder Options:

Motorbike Tank Bags

Moped Rear Helmet holders. (ie: KeeWay Scooter Trunk)

Another Battery Holder Option that I have upgraded to on my rear rack
They are about $63.00 on Amazon, Canadian Tire some times has them on special.
Pelican style camera case with the foam inserts that you can shape to your needs.






I would like to put together a Mid Drive bike next, I am looking at this bad boy.

3000W Cyclone Mid Drive
https://lunacycle.com/cyclone-mid-drive-3000-watt-planetary-kit

Ebike Conversion #4 BBS02 Mid Drive //  October 1, 2018

Norco 29er with Bafang BBS02
After many hours of reading and trying to decide between the BBS02 and the BBSHD, I went with the BBS02, price and getting one shipped in Canada was the deciding factor.

I purchased off of Amazon.ca for $628.58

BAFANG 8fun Mid Drive Crank Motor 48v 750w 25A BBS02 Electric Bike Conversion Kit (44T, C965)

I also spent another $164.96 USD From Luna Cycle 

- 42T - LEKKIE BAFANG BBS02 BLING RING CHAINRING $89.95

- (2) LEKKIE BLING RING SPACERS FOR THE BBS02 $2.50 each

- LUNA WRENCH BBSHD AND BBS02 MID DRIVE INSTALLATION TOOL 19.00

- BSB-1 STABILIZER BAR FOR BBS02 AND BBSHD $21.00

As recommended I also replaced my chain and rear cassette, the mid drive puts a lot of torque on these components, I'm guessing they will need to be replaced yearly or so.

The installation was straight forward, the cables and connectors are color coded and the connectors only fit to the proper device.  The internals on the connectors on the other hand are very delicate, I was surprised that I didn't bend any pins on the connection process, be careful, do not force.

The kit that was sent to me had a faulty throttle(The throttle switch was in an always on state) I had another half twist throttle with a regen switch wich I converted to a cut off switch (instead of using the brake cut offs supplied).  It is working well, kind of like a clutch when shifting gears.

If you have hydraulic brakes like myself and want to have brake-cutoff you will need to purchase the magnetic cut off sensors, after watching some youtube videos on how this was done (basically glueing the sensors and magnets) I abandoned the brake cutoffs and decided to use the regen switch on the throttle to act as my motor cut off when shifting gears etc.  There are hydraulic brake cut off systems available from shimano but I did not want to spend more money on something I felt I didn't really need.

The stabilizer bar from luna, or other ebike shops call it a torque arm, requires a little bit of manipulation and bending to get it to fit properly, I connected the torque arm to the motor then used some hose clamps and pliers to bend the arm to fit and attach to the rear chain stay.  

** You need this stabilizer/torque arm, do not install without it, it should ship with the kit in my opinion.

Problems I have encountered:

Crank Arms - I did not torque these down hard enough on the initial install or they just come loose, I've read varying reports online, make sure you tighten them hard.

Lekkie Ring spacing - I only put in 1 spacer, I will have to put the second one in, the distance between the Lekkie chain ring and my chain stay is very tight (maybe 2mm or so) and I forsee if I do not widen this gap the teeth on the ring could hit the chainstay if something moves, gets bent or whatever.

Speedometer Cable - the one supplied is very short, I may need to extend the cable and move the sensor further back on the chain stay, again i maybe have 2mm of space between the sensor and the magnet, so if I bend a rim or spoke it is going to be bad when the magnet starts smashing into the sensor.

There are some settings to adjust on the bafang c965 controller/LCD, the only things I changed was my wheel size, the PAS pedal assist mode (0-5) and max speed settings.  There is a combination of holding the + then - to get into the menu I put a link above that talks about it.

I've never rode a mid-drive or used pedal assist before and I am quite liking it, overall I am happy with the build and the components, getting the motor weight out of the rims has made the bike feel more like a regular bike again.  I still have my battery on a rear rack so I still have some weight distribution problems but I can live with that for now.

My Allcell battery is unusable at this time, I'm using my wife's Ping 48V 15AH, I'm guessing after commuting this winter this battery will probably be expired as well, it has been a solid battery and I will probably order another one from Ping.

Pictures coming.